A piece of London’s history is on the brink of closure as Veeraswamy, a Michelin-starred restaurant since 1926, faces a dispute with the Crown Estate over its lease. The fate of this iconic institution hangs in the balance.
A Piece of London’s History Faces the Brink of Closure
Veeraswamy, a restaurant that has been serving guests since 1926, is at risk of closure due to a dispute with the Crown Estate. The Crown Estate owns ‘Victory House’ , the building that houses the Michelin-starred Veeraswamy restaurant near Piccadilly Circus.
Veeraswamy is a renowned Indian restaurant located in the heart of London, England.
Established in 1926 by Srinivasan and his wife, it is recognized as the oldest Indian restaurant in the city.
The restaurant has been serving traditional Indian cuisine for over nine decades, offering a range of dishes from various regions of India.
Veeraswamy's menu features classic Indian recipes, including curries, tandoori specialties, and biryanis.
With its rich history and cultural significance, Veeraswamy continues to be a popular destination for food enthusiasts and those seeking an authentic Indian dining experience.
A Legacy Born from Education
When Veeraswamy first opened its doors in April 1926, it was intended to ‘educate’ Londoners about Indian food decades before the era of celebrity chefs. The restaurant’s history dates back to 1926 when it was established by Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of the first governor general of India’s private secretary and a north Indian Moghul princess.
A Royal Connection
Over the years, Veeraswamy has served guests ranging from Marlon Brando to ‘Queen Elizabeth II herself’ . The restaurant has survived the Blitz and London’s relentlessly competitive restaurant sector, but now faces a dispute with the Crown Estate that threatens its survival just short of its 100th anniversary.
Plans for Refurbishment
The Crown Estate plans to extend its lease against the backdrop of plans to refurbish and upgrade offices in the same property. However, this would require removing the entrance to the restaurant, which would not be possible due to the limited options available in the listed building. The Crown Estate has stated that it needs to carry out a comprehensive refurbishment of ‘Victory House’ , including a major upgrade to the offices and improving the entrance.
A Dispute Over Heritage
Veeraswamy‘s co-owner Ranjit Mathrani is now heading to the high court to attempt to have the lease extended. He intends to lodge objections to the plans, citing that the royal family would be unhappy to hear about the heartless treatment of an institution bearing their name. Mathrani believes that Veeraswamy is not just a museum but a living piece of history.
Ranjit Mathrani is an Indian business executive and former CEO of the UK-based retail chain, BHS.
Born in 1961, he began his career at Marks & Spencer before joining BHS in 2006.
Under his leadership, the company underwent significant transformations, including store revamps and new product launches.
Mathrani's tenure was marked by efforts to revive the brand and increase sales.
He played a key role in shaping the retail industry, particularly in the UK market.
The Restaurant’s Current State
Despite the dispute, diners continue to wax lyrical about the restaurant’s heritage and current menu, which includes classics such as ‘patala shahi raan en croute’ and wartime offerings like ‘lobster mayonnaise’ . The fare has evolved over time, but celebrity guests have remained constant.
A Lasting Legacy
Veeraswamy is a piece of London’s history that faces an uncertain future due to the dispute with the Crown Estate. Its legacy, however, remains intact, and its heritage continues to be celebrated by those who have been fortunate enough to experience it.
- theguardian.com | UK’s oldest Indian restaurant faces closure in dispute with crown estate
