At Copenhagen’s Noma, chef Pablo Soto is reinventing the art of fine dining with a symphony of flavors and atmosphere that defies traditional boundaries.
At Copenhagen’s Noma, chef Pablo Soto is reinventing what it means to cook, lead and serve at the highest level of fine dining. ‘The moment ‘Pablo Soto‘ approaches our table with a live king crab, its claws slowly writhing, it becomes clear that Noma isn’t interested in playing by the rules of fine dining.‘
The Noma Experience: A Symphony of Flavors and Atmosphere
This isn’t exactly a revelation—the Copenhagen restaurant, founded by René Redzepi, is famous for doing things its own way and for pushing the boundaries of what’s possible between chef and diner. But ‘Soto’s jovial presentation of the ingredient while still alive further underscores the fact that this meal definitely won’t be the standard fare.’
René Redzepi is a Danish chef and restaurateur, best known for being the founder and head chef of Noma, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Copenhagen.
Born in 1977, Redzepi's culinary journey began with training at some of Denmark's top restaurants.
He opened Noma in 2003, which became renowned for its innovative Nordic cuisine and emphasis on foraging and local ingredients.
Redzepi has been recognized with numerous awards, including four 'Best Restaurant in the World' titles.
His work has also been featured in various publications and documentaries.
The warmth inside Noma is palpable—both literally and in terms of the ebullient atmosphere, which vibrates with the efforts of 40 chefs working in a lively open kitchen in the center of the dining space. After years of expansion, Noma now comprises multiple buildings, a garden and several greenhouses, only some of which are seen by the guests.
A Chef’s Philosophy: Embracing Innovation and Teamwork
We have a simple objective, which I think is the objective of any restaurant: to make people feel at home and give them delicious food,” ‘It sounds so basic. But it really is about making people feel comfortable.’, Soto tells Observer. “The energy that exists in this place is wonderful. You can come for a fancy dinner and be in your suit and a dress, but next to you, there can be two people in shorts and sandals. As a team, we have the power to make both situations feel like it’s no problem. You’re welcome to be here, be who you are and enjoy your meal.”
The Scallop Dish: A Masterclass in Technique
The adage “too many cooks in the kitchen” doesn’t apply here. For Soto, the number of people is the restaurant’s strength. Some are full-time employees and others are on lengthy stages, which last for the entire season. The staff come from around the world, which is another asset.
One of the restaurant’s most notable visitors was Jeremy Allen White, who came to Noma to shoot the most recent season of ‘The Bear.’ In the third season premiere, White’s character, Carmy, is shown in a flashback working in the restaurant’s kitchen, with a cameo from ‘René Redzepi.’
Jeremy Allen White is a renowned American actor, born on February 9, 1991, in Paris, France.
He rose to fame with his breakout role as Phillip 'Fitz' Fitzgerald in the FX series 'The Playboy Club.'
However, it was his portrayal of Lip Gallagher in the critically acclaimed HBO series 'Shameless' that earned him widespread recognition and multiple award nominations.
White's performances have garnered critical acclaim, showcasing his versatility and talent as a young actor.
Noma’s Global Impact: A Culinary Revolution
Soto remembers Copenhagen being a very different city when he first arrived in 2012. Noma was still in its previous space, which is now home to Thorsten Schmidt’s standout eatery ‘Barr,’ and many of the islands were inaccessible on foot or bike.
Today, Noma is farther out from the center of Copenhagen, but very well-connected and shares a neighborhood with the Copenhagen Contemporary museum and the beloved Hart Bageri. “Go to almost any restaurant that is doing something in the city, and you will know that someone there came through Noma or has worked with someone who used to work here,” says Soto.
A Chef’s Vision for the Future
Soto is cagey about what his role will involve when Noma’s next chapter begins. “As we go into our next stage—or stages—I will still be able to lead the team in whatever setup we have going on,” he says. “Whatever future we’re moving into, I know there will be space to be focused on leadership and helping each individual in the team grow into a future that can be long-lasting.”
During our dinner, there’s no sign that Noma could be nearing the end of a chapter. The energy remains high until the very end of the meal, which finishes with a realistic-looking starfish crafted out of chewy caramel. It’s a dish that has been present on past Ocean Season menus, in various forms, but this one is an almost perfect reconstruction of the actual animal thanks to molds the chefs created in Japan.
As a chef, you come every day to a restaurant like this with a feeling of, “Am I ready for this today?”” Soto says. “_You know that something in the day is going to throw you a curveball, sometimes big and sometimes small. And you’re constantly surrounded by people who are pushing themselves. There’s always something to prove to the person next to you. And that push makes you better.”
